The genius behind Bernie’s Burger Bus is back with a delicious new burger concept
Not three weeks after enjoying Pincho’s’ revival of Chef Justin Turner’s Cheerleader burger from his beloved Bernie’s Burger Bus (RIP) days — see my write- up here — comes outstandingly incredible news.
Chef Turner — who has somewhat quietly had a burger on the menu at Lupo Caffe (for those of us on the west side this is quite a bit far flung on the northeast side of town at Redemption Square at Generation Park) for a minute — announced the launch of Lupo Burger inside Lupo Caffe literally yesterday.
As I wrote in the Cheerleader review last month, “For those unfamiliar, Bernie’s Burger Bus was an institution and one of the absolute best burger spots in all of Houston in the late 2010s. My family and I ate at the La Centerra location at what felt like a monthly cadence, and it was beloved by all four of us. Much to the sheer horror of beef lovers citywide, it closed all of its locations early on during the COVID-19 pandemic.”
The opportunity to revisit the legendary hamburgers from Bernie’s Burger Bus from the one-and-only Chef Turner? 🤯
Answering the Burger Signal’s call, I instantaneously knew what today’s Friday Burger Adventure™️ was going to be.
I raced up to Generation Park (which is nowhere close to any of the weekday or weekend geographies I inhabit), and thrillingly ordered up Chef Turner’s new Jalapeño Burger, topped with beer-battered jalapeños, jalapeño ranch, lettuce, garlic-roasted tomatoes, and pepperjack cheese. In a throwback to the Bernie’s days, I had to make it a double.
This was, in short, everything I’d hoped it would be and then some. The beef was, as always, exquisite and lush, and the assorted jalapeño treatments provided just enough heat without being overwhelming (even though I do love spice).
I asked Chef Turner about his beef, and he was kind enough to share that he sources through Creekstone, using a one-to-one brisket-to-chuck blend that nets out to an unheard-of (at least for me) 68/32 lean-to-fat ratio. The closest I’ve had is Gastrocraft’s Dennis Feray’s 73/27 blend, and given that Feray’s smashburger is a guarantee for my upcoming year-end Best Burgers of 2025 list, clearly I also like ‘em on the fattier side as well as spicy. The seasoning is straightforward and minimal (a trend I’ve noticed among elite burger purveyors) — salt, pepper, and MSG; and the burger sauce is comprised of horseradish, ketchup, dijon mustard, capers, cayenne, smoked paprika and onions.
I wish I had the stomach capacity to try everything on the menu, because Lupo Burger naturally doesn’t offer only one option: there’s also a Basic Cheeseburger, Salsa Verde Burger, and a Breakfast Burger; PLUS new smashburger options (which were nowhere near as popular back in the late 2010s the way they are today) including a Double Smash and a BBQ Smash.
Given my increasing appreciation of and desire for smashes over the last few months, I was tempted to go smash, but felt like I had to go traditional in this initial rekindling.
Oh, and if the initial nostalgic overload of a refreshed Bernie’s-style burger wasn’t enough, Chef Turner was kind enough to share that in November he is in fact bringing back an updated version of one of my absolute all-time favorite Houston hamburgers: The Substitute.
(The OG Substitute. Dear God).
Lastly, I of course had to ask whether he had any plans to open anything burger-related just a wee bit closer to my west-side-of-town stomping grounds. While nothing is imminent, Chef Turner did tease that he’d love to open a 24/7 burger concept in the heart of Chinatown. Let’s PLEASE make this happen, folks.
It’s quite the dopamine rush when something you are incredibly excited about not only meets but exceeds expectations, and if you are a fellow burger obsessive, do yourself a favor and make the journey out to Lupo Burger. I guarantee you will thank me later.
4.75 patties out of 5 (saving my 5 for the return of The Substitute 😁).
Recommended Additional Coverage
After this, make sure to also read John-Henry Perera’s “Houston burger legend returns behind grill with brand-new concept” in The Houston Chronicle.
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