Author: Larry Koestler

  • One Mean burger

    One Mean burger

    Friday, March 8, 2024 — When they place it on a tee for you…

    I love truth in advertising. The very first phrase you see on the home page of Humble’s Mean Burger is “That’s one Mean Burger!!” and they are not kidding around.

    Mean Burger is located about 10 minutes northeast of IAH, and only hit my radar this past week. I knew I had to be up at the airport to complete the Global Entry process (which is more of a hassle than it should be), and so naturally I researched potential hamburger spots in the area.

    Mean Burger has a 4.8 on both Yelp and Google — making it the 2nd-highest-rated burger joint in the entire greater Houston area! (after JLB Eatery) — and I am ecstatic to say that it absolutely lived up to that reputation.

    Located in an unassuming strip center, Mean Burger’s interior is no-frills — which is basically the description of every legendary Houston burger place — and all chowing down.

    I ordered the Mean Bleu Cheese Burger with two extremely generously sized patties (because of course), which came with bacon and blue cheese, and I added pickle, raw onion, pickled jalapeños, grilled jalapeños, grilled mushrooms, and thousand island dressing.

    If you’ve read my reviews previously, you know that I (a) much prefer huge patties to smashburgers; (b) am wild about bleu cheese and bacon as burger toppings; and (c) always want to customize my sandwiches. I also deeply appreciate a place that gives you a starting point — in this case, the Mean Bleu — and then lets you go even further with additions.

    As for the burger itself, look at that thing! A massive double stack piled to the sky with add-ons and a bun that can barely contain the proceedings. The beef was cooked wonderfully—I could’ve gone for a hint rawer, but the options were Medium, Medium Well, and Well Done, and even at a slightly lengthier cook the meat had enough juice—and lightly seasoned. Not sure what their blend is, but when your base patty is this bursting with flavor, no need to go overboard on salt.

    The blue cheese was on point and bacon crispy, and the toppings were excessively generous. Not to slight Hippo, which I also enjoyed, but this is closer to what I was hoping for when I tried Hippo’s Blue burger a few weeks ago.

    All in all, Mean checked just about every box I can think of for supreme burger satisfaction, and is most worthy of its ranking as #2 burger place in greater Houston!

    I still can’t quite believe an aggregate 4.8 burger spot has existed in Houston without my knowing about it prior to this past week. Granted, Humble isn’t technically Houston, but definitely counts as greater Houston. I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again — Houstonians are beyond spoiled when it comes to options for utterly outrageously delicious meat piles. Now if only we could say the same about the local Hazy IPA scene, which of course isn’t entirely bereft of world-class options, but these days finding Houston breweries interested in pushing the envelope on saturation is largely an effort in futility. But that’s a conversation for another time :)

    For today, let’s celebrate yet another outstanding burger option in Greater Houston — in fact, I’m fairly certain Mean Burger will crack my Top 5 (though it’s starting to get crowded in there!). 5 out of 5 patties! 🍔 🍔 🍔 🍔 🍔

  • Offbeat local fast food franchise Hippo Burger lives up to its name

    Offbeat local fast food franchise Hippo Burger lives up to its name

    Friday, February 23, 2024 — On the heels of my not-as-amazing-as-I’d-hoped experience at Flip ’n Patties on my actual birthday this past week, I found myself craving a beef topping combo I know and love. Specifically, a blue cheese and bacon burger.

    For the seemingly zillion hamburger options in Houston, there are surprisingly few that offer a blue cheese option. And there seem to be even fewer that let you customize to your heart’s content.

    As I studied my burger list to determine where my next adventure would take me, I had three criteria: I definitely wanted it to be a burger joint, not a restaurant with a notable burger. I wanted it to be near the top of the ratings, as I work my way down from highest to lowest. And if it didn’t have blue cheese as a substitute, it at least needed to offer a burger sandwich that came topped with blue cheese in its description.

    It didn’t take me long to identify the location that met all three: Hippo Burgers. Hippo’s been on my list for a while, but given its relatively far-flung locations—it actually has 10(!) outposts in the greater Houston area, though the closest to the Galleria is still a 25-minute ride away—it kept getting backburnered.

    To my delight, one of Hippo’s primary offerings is the Hippo Blue Burger, and at a 4.3 Yelp / 4.6 Google ranking, Hippos is the 13th-highest rated Hamburger Joint in Houston. With only four places ahead of it I haven’t tried yet, Hippo was the clear choice to satisfy my high-rated blue cheese craving.

    However, before diving into the meat, I’d be remiss if I didn’t comment on the Hippo experience. I’m not sure if they all share the same appearance, but the one on the Sam Houston Tollway is connected to a gas station mini mart, and the yellow interior decor—and even the logo!—are eerily evocative of Kevin Smith’s View Askewniverse fast food satire Mooby’s

    Despite placing my order in advance, I still had to wait in a line while in-person customers ordered ahead of me, due to there being one cashier. Efficiency is not the name of the game at Hippo. One last quirk — one of Hippo’s differentiators is apparently photographing (and serving!) their burgers upside-down. For the life of me I’m not entirely sure what this is meant to accomplish, though it’s something to talk about.

    Anyway, on to the savory (I’d say juicy, but this burger was decided not) details! Right out of the gate I knew I’d be happy with this substantially sized hamburger sandwich, especially after the petite presentation of Flip ‘n’s Puet Burger

    The Hippo Blue Burger is comprised of a 1/2 pound Angus beef patty, bacon, bleu cheese, mayo, lettuce, and tomatoes. I added mustard, ketchup, pickles, jalapeños, and a fried egg, delivered on a generously sized (upside down) potato bun. For me, this specific combination of toppings is almost as good as it gets—had they offered banana peppers, it would’ve been an all-time Larry burger.

    As it stands, the sandwich overall was enjoyable, primarily because of the heft of the patty and the glorious synergy of the toppings. I could’ve used even more blue cheese crumbles and maybe another strip of bacon, but the flavor mix was mostly on point, and I was also glad I added jalapeños (and received more than one this time!) for some much-needed heat.

    Alas, similar to my recent experience with Crypto Burger, the toppings really stole the show, as the meat itself was dry and overcooked. A bit reminiscent of Whataburger (which, I like Whataburger! But I also know exactly what I’m getting myself into when eating at Whataburger, and that is a beef patty more arid than a Houston summer day). 

    Still, overall I really enjoyed finally trying Hippo, and while I wouldn’t go out of my way, I’d definitely eat it again. The more I dive into this burger adventure, the fewer places I’ve come across that allow the level of full-blown customization that Hippo does (the only enhancement I didn’t see was the ability to add a second patty — not that this particular beef monster needed a friend, but I always appreciate having the option to go full-on gorge). In my experience, Hippo’s modification options are rivaled only by those of burger-chan‘s.

    4.25 out of 5 patties.

  • Not quite flippin’ out for Flip ‘n Patties

    Not quite flippin’ out for Flip ‘n Patties

    Thursday, February 22, 2024 — Like several of the Houston culinary scene’s success stories, Flip ‘n Patties began life as a popular food truck with a mission statement of “To bring happiness to your heart by sharing Filipino flavors and culture.” In 2017 it made the leap to brick-and-mortar, and currently boasts not one but two locations in the Houston area — one in Downtown, and the other in the Energy Corridor on Eldridge.

    I learned of Flip n’ Patties’ existence by way of Reddit (if you’re ever looking for an endless supply of local recommendations, just Google “Houston’s best burgers” and in addition to the usual roundups from area publications you’ll also surface ~8,000 Reddit threads), and it quickly laddered its way up my to-do list after discovering it carried a 4.6 Yelp / 4.7 Google rating. I recently added categories to my spreadsheetHamburger Joint, Smashburger, and Restaurant with a Notable Burger — and Flip n’ Patties ranks as the #3 spot in all of Houston in the Restaurant w/Notable Burger arena (I wrestled a bit with this grouping, as Flip ‘n does have a hamburger in its logo, but ultimately the wide range and diversity of the entirety of the menu landed it in full-blown restaurant territory for me). 

    Top 3 means I went in with pretty high expectations.

    Were they met? Unfortunately, it fell a little short for me. 

    Let’s start with the good: the steamed buns — handcrafted and made fresh daily — might be the tastiest at any establishment that serves a hamburger in Houston. I’d never previously had a hamburger served to me on such a vehicle, and the flavor and texture were evocative of dining on delicious pork buns. Unfortunately the composition of the bun is also not entirely conducive to fully holding up to the weight and juiciness of the contents inside, but it was hard to be too disappointed about a slightly soggy bun when the flavor was so enjoyable.

    The not so good: there were several extremely appealing-sounding burgers on the menu, and it was a challenge to make a selection. I went with the Puet Burger, comprised of Akaushi beef (I’ve of course had Wagyu, but this was a new blend to me), diced pecan smoked pork butt, sautéed onions, provolone, houseblend mayo, and FnP tang sauce. I asked if I could add jalapeños, which they agreed to, but somewhat surprisingly declined my request for a second patty. I also thought the recipe’s inclusion of provolone was a bit odd, as in my experience provolone is fine, but doesn’t generally add much flavor-wise. 

    (Sidebar: the deeper I get into my burger quest, I’m increasingly finding that most cheese varieties don’t actually seem to shine in a saporous manner during the overall burger-consumption experience. Don’t get me wrong — I’m never going to not order cheese on my burger — but unless it’s something notably piquant, like blue cheese or extra sharp cheddar, cheese’s role in the topping taste profile of many burgers seems to be more of a gooey, secondary, texture-based one than a scene-stealing star turn).

    Unfortunately the sandwich struggled to overcome my preconceived notions. The beef blend did indeed have the melt-in-your-mouth richness hallmark of Akaushi — but the patty was smaller than anticipated. Those of you that have broken bread with me know I tend to eat as though I literally just discovered food, but this was inhaled expediently even for me — maybe four bites, tops. I really would’ve loved a second patty. The pork butt got a bit lost amid the onions and sauces, and I’m not sure my addition of jalapeños came to fruition — I think I spotted just one. And as expected, the provolone was invisibly bland.

    It’s very possible the Puet Burger just wasn’t for me. I thought the beef was flavorful enough that I’d be willing to give a different burger composition at Flip ‘n Patties another try at some point, but I wouldn’t go out of my way for it (don’t even get me started on how much of a nightmare it is to navigate Eldridge Street during rush hour!). I would be very curious to assemble an Akaushi patty with my preferred toppings of blue cheese, bacon, pickled jalapeños and onions, banana peppers, pickles, ketchup, lettuce, tomato, mustard, and mayo, and as I’m typing this out I might need to fire up the grill and do just that this weekend.

    I’m not sure it’s entirely fair to rate a restaurant based on the one thing you ordered when there are multiple other options available in its cohort, but on the flip side I’m also not ordering five different hamburgers everywhere I go (as much as I would love to). I’m giving it a 4, which may sound generous after I spent most of the review dinging it, but the quality of the beef and bun kept it from being a total letdown. 

    And on to the next burger adventure!

  • JLB Eatery yet another winner in Katy’s increasingly exceptional burger scene

    JLB Eatery yet another winner in Katy’s increasingly exceptional burger scene

    Saturday, February 17, 2024 — With my birthday coming up I knew I wanted to knock a few more new burger spots off of my to-do list. Not that I ever need an excuse to seek new hamburgers out, but the celebratory vibe of one’s day of birth ensured my attention was focused at the top of my spreadsheet to see which highly-regarded joints would make the cut. 

    At a 4.8 on both Yelp and Google, JLB Eatery (which has 12 Houston-area locations) is the highest-rated burger place in Katy. The only reason I hadn’t been sooner is that, in some regards, I figured I’d already had their food. Being the burger obsessive that I am, naturally I’ve previously eaten at Joy Love Burger numerous times (and have always loved it), but JLB Eatery appears to technically be a separate entity from Joy Love Burger. 

    I’m generally a pretty successful internet sleuth, but information around what exactly occurred to lead Chef Joon Jeon to leave the restaurant he founded — the original Joy Love Burger — and open a new one called JLB Eatery is surprisingly hard to come by, but as best I can tell the two establishments operate independently and despite Chef Jeon’s utilization of the JLB acronym, appear to have completely distinct ownership groups. Aside from that, the menus are very, very similar

    Which means I wasn’t surprised for one moment that I absolutely loved JLB Eatery! The only slight hiccup was that ordering at the counter and the subsequent arrival of the food was a bit more sluggish than I’d prefer (would definitely order ahead online next time), but the staff was so lovely and accommodating during what was clearly a busy Friday night that it was no big deal.

    I ordered the Crazy Burger, which consists of two MASSIVE double certified Angus beef patties, double cheese, mayonnaise, lettuce, pickles, tomatoes, bacon, grilled onions, and thousand island dressing. This thing is absolutely GARGANTUAN (unfortunately my photo does not do it justice) — no joke it is probably a 2,000-calorie hamburger sandwich.

    And holy crap was it delicious! Everything I recall loving about Joy Love Burger is beyond represented in JLB Eatery’s loving ode to beefy extravagance. I know I keep mentioning the size, but if you like gigantic, juicy melt-in-your mouth hamburgers, I’m not sure you’ll find a happier place than JLB. I thought the beef flavor might get overwhelmed by all of the delicious accoutrement — the thousand-island dressing is off the charts, and it is absolutely slathered in bacon, pickles and onions — but it remained the star of the show throughout, resplendent in savory, soft, beefy deliciousness. Texturally exquisite and cooked to perfection. And no conversation about JLB Eatery is complete without highlighting the bun — in addition to cooking insanely great hamburgers, Chef Jeon is also a pattisier and so JLB bakes all of their buns fresh daily. We’ve all had experiences where the bun can occasionally be an afterthought, but at JLB it’s almost as big a draw as the meat itself. I inhaled this thing and didn’t look back. 

    And I also ordered the Steak Fries, because how can you not when they come smothered in philly steak, cheese, onions, lettuce, and jalapeños? Similar to Crypto Burger’s Spicy Metaverse Monster Fries, this enormous side could easily be a meal unto its own, and I took the whole thing down as well (thank goodness I knew I had an 8-mile run ahead of me the next morning 😂). 

    Overall, I was utterly delighted (and beyond satiated!) by my experience at JLB Eatery, and it absolutely lives up to its aggregated online ratings as Katy’s best burger. Just make sure you go there on the emptiest stomach possible! And my goodness is Katy currently flush with exceptional hamburger choices these days—between Old School Burger,  Fusion, Kowbell, JLB (and even original Joy Love), elevated options for the beef-loving denizens of Katy are plentiful

    Five out five patties. 🍔🍔🍔🍔🍔

  • Don’t miss hype Houston food truck Crypto Burger’s crave-worthy FOMO sauce

    Don’t miss hype Houston food truck Crypto Burger’s crave-worthy FOMO sauce

    Friday, February 9, 2024 — Traveling Houston-area burger purveyors Crypto Burger hit my Instagram feed last fall with mouth-watering photos of their delicious-looking burgers, and I finally popped over to the food truck park on Chimney Rock in the Galleria to see what all the fuss was about.

    Anticipating a line, the entire park—which also features another burger food truck catty corner from Crypto—was instead surprisingly barren for lunchtime on a Friday. I debated between their fan favorite Bunque Burger and the Bull Run, and ended up ordering the latter. 

    Bull Run is described as a “Homemade beef patty, topped with Serrano peppers, beef bacon, fried onions, cayenne pepper hot sauce, shredded Colby jack cheese, and our spicy FOMO sauce.” 

    It took a bit longer for my order—which, because I am a glutton for all things meat, also included the Spicy Metaverse Monster Fries, a gigantic platter of fries that could easily serve as a meal unto its own absolutely smothered with ground beef, grilled jalapeños, and FOMO sauce—to be completed than I expected, though you can’t quibble with a fresh-grilled burger.

    As you can see by my photo, the patty is drenched in the FOMO sauce and it is truly the star of the show. A pleasant zippiness, but not overwhelmingly spicy where it blows your palate out. The beef blend itself was enjoyable, though the overall flavor got a little lost amidst all of the other awesomeness accompanying it. The bun was fluffy and also hefty enough to stand up to the onslaught of toppings—always a plus.

    Overall I was glad to have finally checked Crypto off my neverending list. While I don’t  think it cracks my top five in Houston—though in fairness, that’s a difficult list to enter!—and food trucks seem to be the recipient of a generous grading curve by the review-leaving public, I would definitely eat it again. 4 out of 5 patties.

  • Champ-ing at the bit: Is this Houston’s best hamburger?

    Champ-ing at the bit: Is this Houston’s best hamburger?

    Friday, January 26, 2024 — Champ Burger is Houston burger royalty in this city, having first flung its doors open 61 years ago. It jumped toward the top of my to-eat list when I began compiling my Houston burger rating tracking spreadsheet a couple of months ago, standing out as the 8th-highest-rated burger in the entire Greater Houston area (if you go by Yelp) or tied with three others for 2nd (if you prefer Google ratings). For added context, this is a spreadsheet that currently features nearly 120 places in and around Houston to grab a burger, and almost certainly isn’t an exhaustive list!

    Right out of the gate, its well-worn neighborhood feel and overall vibe — lengthy line at the order window and mostly outdoor seating — are immediately evocative of fellow Houston burger institutions Lankford Grill, Bubba’s Texas Burger Shack, and Stanton’s City Bites (eagle-eyed readers will recall that the former two made my Best Burgers of 2023 roundup, while the latter also would’ve been on there had I extended the list past a mere five slots). It’s also no coincidence that each of these venues all trade in exceptional beef stack assembly, sharing a like-minded ethos of “more is more” with regards to both patty size (no smashburgers to be found at these spots) and generosity of toppings.

    So let’s get to it. The Champ burger was, at the risk of overstating things, about as hedonistically thrilling a consumptive experience as one can hope to attain. Everything about this sandwich screams love, deliciousness, indulgence, excess, and yet still care and attentiveness. The patties are expertly seasoned and the 81/19 Chuck beef blend is melt-in-your-mouth exquisite (do yourself a favor and get the double, you won’t be sad that you did), the cheese perfectly gooey, and the toppings — oh, the toppings! — elevated the entire composition to an ethereal level. 

    Often when one orders bacon on a burger, you’ll get one slice — maybe two if you’re lucky — that isn’t cohesively synthesized into the sandwich and frequently feel like an afterthought. Champ’s burgers are flooded with bacon, and it’s cooked to middle-ground soft-yet-chewy perfection. I added jalapeños to mine (because how can you not) and the sandwich also comes standard with lettuce, tomato, pickles, and mayo, and you get heaping piles of everything. I’m not usually looking for tons of mayo but the burger was drenched in it, and it really worked; while my wrapper probably contained about 10 jalapeños that had to jump ship as I systematically devoured this monster beef delivery vehicle at my typical breakneck pace. 

    Recency bias is always difficult to overcome when comparing favorite entries in a given category — and I absolutely loved both Bubba’s and Lankford, and should probably try to orchestrate a blind tasting one of these days for fairness and accuracy’s sake), but it’s very possible I just found my new favorite hamburger* in Houston. 

    (*While technically both are still hamburgers, at this point the spots that specialize in smashburgers versus the older-school traditional hamburger joints arrive at their delicious destinations in such distinctly unique fashions from each other, that the “my favorite hamburger” designation can be bifurcated into regular and smash — which means burger-chan of course remains my top smash in the city).

  • KP’s Kitchen: Burger simplicity par excellence

    KP’s Kitchen: Burger simplicity par excellence

    Friday, January 19, 2024 — My ever-growing list of burgers to try in the Greater Houston area (go ahead and click the link; it’s the first time I’ve publicly shared my spreadsheet 😊) is usually populated by places that appear on best-of lists and/or word of mouth via the city’s lively and various Facebook foodie groups. 

    KP’s hit my radar by way of Reddit, and I’m certainly glad it did. My spreadsheet ranks burgers by Yelp review first and Google rating second, as the former is typically a tougher grade. KP’s is the rare spot that grades out ridiculously highly on both platforms — 4.6 on Yelp, and 4.7 on Google. 

    And it deserves those high marks.

    KP’s cheeseburger might be the most unassuming of all of the patties I’ve reviewed to date — its two smashburgers are accompanied by smoked bacon, American cheese, dijonnaise & hand cut fries — but its the execution that makes this straightforward sandwich top-notch.  The burgers themselves are exquisite — I don’t know what the meat blend is, but they’re expertly seasoned and cooked to perfection, and given the sheer volume of meat stack plates I saw coming out of the kitchen, it’s no small feat to nail the temperature over and over again for a restaurant that’s not a fast-food joint. 

    Truly, the KP burger’s appeal lies in its simplicity — the cheese is melted just so, the bacon soft yet chewy, and the bun representing the ideal delivery vehicle. You’d be forgiven if you overlooked KP’s given that it sits right on I-10 (“I can’t imagine an elite burger place on a highway frontage road”), but do yourself a favor and hop on over there for this beefy greatness. 

    To top it off, KP’s is BYOB, and for an outrageously picky beer snob like me, the ability to bring a world-class hazy DIPA into the restaurant — in this particular instance, a fresh-off–the-canning-line batch of SpindleTap’s lovely ode to Nelson and Galaxy hops, Hirsch Road Hop Heads — absolutely elevated the overall experience, and cemented KP’s as a go-to spot for meals to come.

    4.5 out of 5 patties. 🍔🍔🍔🍔

  • Katy’s got a fever, baby. And the only prescription is more Kowbell

    Katy’s got a fever, baby. And the only prescription is more Kowbell

    Friday, January 12, 2024 — Kowbell Burger—nestled snugly in Katy Asian Town—burst on to the local burger scene a mere handful of months ago and quickly garnered a legion of hype. No small feat in a greater metropolitan area dripping in burger exceptionalism. Naturally it quickly hit my to-do list, and I finally checked it off this weekend. And I am delighted to say, it absolutely slayed.

    The patty is a tri-blend of chuck, brisket, and short rib, and is a true joy unto itself. But of course, burgers are best served fully adorned by their best topping friends, and in this instance I selected the Blue Bayou. If you’ve been reading my burger reviews you know I’m wild about blue cheese, and this gem is smothered in its eponymous fromage, along with smoked bacon, signature k-buffalo sauce, and mayo. Because I have to have jalapeños on everything, I requested their addition. And because I’m an absolute meat savage, I of course added a second patty to make it a double.

    This burger encapsulated Larry bliss — an exemplary meat blend, brilliant blue cheese flavor, a second layer of meat, and an added zippiness from the peppers. The restaurant also features multiple proprietary sauces, helping further elevate an already refined beef delivery conveyance.

    My only nit was the bun—as you can see in the photo, it’s a bit underwhelming visually, and I’m not sure it did much for the overall experience flavor-wise. Also, the Parmesan truffle fries were a bit thick and could’ve used more seasoning.

    With that said, if you swapped these buns out for brioche, we could potentially be talking about the best burgers in Texas 😱 Bun notwithstanding, I get why Kowbell is currently rocking a perfect 5.0 on Google (and yes, we know Google ratings are inflated), and a 4.6 on notoriously stingy Yelp.

    5 out of 5 patties 🍔🍔🍔🍔🍔

  • The “Legendary Cheeseburger” at NYC’s Nowon is highly overrated

    The “Legendary Cheeseburger” at NYC’s Nowon is highly overrated

    Monday, January 1, 2024 — I made time for one hype burger during our recent NYC holiday trip, and — it wasn’t great.

    Nowon is a Korean-American gastropub with two New York locations. We dined at the East Village outpost on 6th Street between Avenue A and Avenue B. Having grown up six blocks away from Alphabet City and later as an adult living on its northern border at 14th Street and Avenue A, it’s my favorite neighborhood in New York. Countless memories of long nights at bars — my wife and I had our very first date at the former Musical Box (Easter egg!) bar on Avenue B between 13th and 14th Streets — and dozens of terrific meals, but unfortunately this wasn’t one of them.

    Nowon hit my radar on the heels of a handful of highly influential NYC food influencers — including Jeremy Jacobowitz; The Infatuation‘s Bryan Kim, Neha Talreja, Willa Morre, and Kenny Yang; and by Shauna Lyons in The New Yorker, arguably the city’s ultimate high-brow cultural aesthete — recommending the burger as one of the city’s best. No greater sign of a New York restaurant having a moment than threatening you with a $125 fee if you need to cancel and don’t provide ample advanced notice!

    Digression aside, our party of four was sat at a too-small roundtop despite there being a more generously sized rectangular table available. My brother and I were both excited to try what the restaurant calls its “Legendary Cheeseburger.” 

    The sandwich consists of two smashed patties, pickles, kimchi, and kimchi sauce, and…it was incredibly underwhelming. While I’m certainly willing to give a place the benefit of the doubt and chalk it up to a bad night, the burger was straight-up boring. The sesame-seed bun was uninspiring and borderline stale, and the patties were *way* overcooked. Biting into this thing was akin to chewing on a hockey puck. I thought for sure the kimchi sauce would moisten this arid meat-delivery vehicle, but no such luck — this was one of the drier burgers I can recall having in some time. I love a juicy burger, and this was the antithesis. Lastly, the patties were on the small side, and being smashed meant the sandwich had no heft. Maybe many New Yorkers prefer a daintier hamburger, but if there’s one “bigger in Texas” stereotype I’ve wholeheartedly adopted during my decade in the Lone Star State it’s the desire for burger stacks so massive you need to unhinge your jaw to consume them.

    Nowon’s saving grace for us that night was that everything else we ordered — pickled cucumbers and fried chicken for appetizers, and kimchee and mushroom rice veggie dish entrees selected by our significant others — was delicious.

    Parenthetically, during my previous trip home to NYC this last summer I made a point to try 7th Street Burger, another smashburger joint which has also garnered its share of hype. It was enjoyable — certainly juicier than Nowon’s — but I’m not sure it brought much more to the table than one might find at Shake Shack.

    Thus far in the Houston-NYC burger wars, H-Town is running circles around my hometown. While it may not be an entirely apples-to-apples to comparison, I can’t help but evaluate everything against burger-chan, my 2023 Top Burger winner, and eating Nowon’s dry, joyless burger made me appreciate just how fortunate Houstonians are to enjoy the thoughtful, intentional, and heartfelt experience Willet and Diane deliver every day.

    Nowon rating: 1 out of 5 patties 😬

  • An in-Fusion of delicious hamburgers

    An in-Fusion of delicious hamburgers

    Sunday, December 24, 2023 — An in-Fusion of delicious hamburgersTonight we revisited another 2023 favorite: Fusion Grill on Mason Road in Katy. Fusion’s staked a claim among Katyites (Katyians?) as one of the best burger spots around, and I’d go as far as putting it up against my faves in all of Houston. It’s neck-and-neck with Old School Burger for best in Katy (though for me Old School has the slight edge for the top spot).

    My go-to at Fusion—which almost has too many burger options to choose from—is the Asadero Burger, pictured here. My photo doesn’t do the meat itself justice—as you can see the bun is huge and the toppings plentiful to the point where the patty is pretty much entirely obscured—but it’s an exceptional Angus patty.

    This is no smashburger—thick and plentiful to the point where two patties would be excessive, and that’s saying something coming from someone who feels a double burger should be mandatory at all times.

    The asadero cheese combined with roasted jalapeño and jalapeño ranch sauce give it a jolt of spiciness for those of us the love an extra kick in your burgers, and the oversized bun makes for the ideal delivery vehicle.

    In addition to the burgers, the parmesan truffle fries are also outstanding as is the fried calamari. Probably Katy’s best overall restaurant (non-Pearl-and-Vine division). Just make sure you come hungry 👌

    4.25 out of 5 patties.