Tag: restaurants

  • This Joint’s beef lives up to the Juicy hype

    This Joint’s beef lives up to the Juicy hype

    Friday, October 25, 2024 — First things first: I have to give brand-new Houston food truck Juicy Joint’s social media coordinator props. The only reason I even knew to try their hot-off-the-presses meat concoctions was that in the past few weeks, my Instagram and Facebook have been bombarded with hype videos announcing Juicy Joint’s opening. As launch parties aren’t my thing, I knew I needed to wait at least a week until the initial excitement died down (according to their IG stories, there were an extraordinary number of people lined up waiting to try their burgers on opening night—I LOVE hamburgers, but I detest waiting in lines of any kind for anything, and given the plethora of incredible options available in Houston I will never wait on a line for a burger), but they promoted an appearance by Paul Wall, free food, 50% off all weekend, and a contest to win free Juicy Joint food for a year. Those are some pretty solid tactics to get the burger-loving public’s attention.

    Juicy Joint’s claim to fame is that they are apparently the first ever burger spot in Houston to offer halal wagyu burgers. I’ve had plenty of halal, and plenty of wagyu, but I guess none of the spots I’ve been to have combined the two previously. 

    They’ve also elected to set up shop in a ridiculously competitive location for burgers, the Galleria Food Truck Park on Chimney Rock and Val Verde, which already features fellow purveyor of halal burgers Crypto Burger (which I sampled last February) as well as Bun Slut; not to mention highly-rated vegan-focused (though not exclusively so) Burganic Hub (4.5 on Yelp) in the retail center next door. PLUS there’s a Whataburger directly across the street. Not to mention just-anointed Top 100 Restaurant in Houston (and my personal #1) burger-chan, Clutch City Grill (very possibly my current #2), and Bubba’s (my #3 in 2023) are each within a 5-minute drive of Juicy Joint.

    Right out of the gate I was pleased to see that they offered both “regular”-sized patties and smashburgers. Longtime readers will recall that my preference is for monster-sized patties — though I’ve got plenty of love for the smash, especially when you consider burger-chan is my favorite spot in the city (though I also contend that burger-chan isn’t necessarily what I would consider a “true” smash, as their patties are quite a bit thicker than many other smash examples).

    I ordered the Jalapeño Groove Sizzler, which comes on a golden potato bun with 2 buttery wagyu smash patties (I added a third because two smashes never seem to fill me), American cheese, Juicy Joint’s signature sauce, crisp jalapeños, and shredded lettuce.

    The meat is absolutely the star of the show—juicy as advertised, delicate, and resplendently umami. The signature sauce was a tasty, and I really enjoyed the jalapeños—but I would’ve liked a lot more of them! Not sure if they are planning a French fry program, but at the moment they’re an afterthought — nicely seasoned, but none of the loaded options that have become de rigeur at many local hamburger spots.

    My only other nit is the relative lack of variety. While offering the two different types of patties is a refreshing change of pace, there are only two burger types within each category—Walk it Out Classic and Jalapeño Groove Sizzler in the smash tier, and Mushroom Groove Deluxe and Walkin’ on Sunshine representing the regular-sized options. And aside from adding a patty (which I was only able to do in person; they don’t appear to have added that option via ordering online) there were zero customization options. 

    For a topping freak like me, not being able to add 8,000 items definitely brings there experience down a notch or two.

    Juicy Joint gets high marks for the beef itself—and is flavorful enough that it’s worth a try—but it won’t dethrone the burger-chans or Clutch Cities of the world without a much wider range of sandwich types, customization options, and loaded fry offerings.

     4 patties out of 5 🍔 🍔 🍔 🍔

  • This Burger didn’t stand a Chance

    This Burger didn’t stand a Chance

    Saturday, September 28, 2024 — Not a Damn Chance Burger is, according to their website (and the inside of the burger carton), “a Wagyu cheeseburger collaboration between professional skateboarder Neen Williams and Michelin-starred chef Phillip Frankland Lee of Sushi by Scratch Restaurants & Pasta Bar.”

    I first caught wind of this Austin-originated smashburger concept a year ago, and made a mental note to check it out during a future Austin visit. But I haven’t been to ATX since then, and so I was excited when I saw that a location of the hyped burger joint had opened in the Lustre Pearl in EaDo. Located literally across the street from Rodeo Goat—which has charmed many a Houston burger lover (including me), though as a Ft. Worth import is also not homegrown (for those that care about such things)—Houston’s NADC is more of an outpost than a restaurant. But that isn’t stopping it from crafting its tasty burger sandwiches.

    There’s only one burger on the menu at NADC Houston: The NADC Burger, which consists of two smashed patties of 100% RC Ranch wagyu beef, American cheese, secret sauce, onions, pickles and what they refer to as slightly tamed jalapeños (you can add a third patty, but the upcharge is $8! I am a beef savage, but extra beef for half the cost of the sandwich is too much even for me).

    Using Wagyu is the real differentiator here (or at least, making the usage of Wagyu a key part of their marketing 😊), as the beef was very flavorful and tender, and the secret sauce elevated the proceedings. I also dug the Beast Mode Fries, which were slathered in cheese, diced pickles & jalapeños, special sauce & seasoning.

    As Houston’s elite burger scene is already extremely crowded with a salivating number of outstanding options, I don’t know that I’d go out of my way to get NADC’s smashburger—and being three feet from Rodeo Goat makes doing so an even trickier proposition—but the burger is distinctive enough to be worthy of your consideration.

    If you dropped this concept somewhere in the Greater Houston area that was completely bereft of elite burgers, I think it would do really well. While Katy currently has no shortage of great burger places, I can’t think of any “drop everything and go there” smashburger options at the moment.

    Hopefully it lasts—I feel like they probably need to boost their promotion of the concept (and the Lustre Pearl for that matter, which is actually another really rad food hall-ish type space somewhat reminiscent of Conservatory, though with fewer options) considering me, Houston’s most prominent burger lover (note tongue firmly in cheek), only caught wind of the fact that a beloved Austin instituion opened in Houston because it was mentioned offhandedly somewhere in one of my online content hubs. 

    I would’ve thought a local location for one of ATXs finest would’ve merited a full-court marketing/PR push (and for all I know, they very well may have done this!) leading to cultish lines out the door; when I showed up at opening time on a Friday afternoon there were literally zero other people there. 

    In fairness, the NADC Insta, Williams’, and Lee’s accounts did all post about its launch on June 21, and perhaps there was a groundswell of support that simply didn’t hit my social ecosystem at that time—but there doesn’t seem to have been an overwhelming amount of online chatter or marketing for the Houston spot in the ensuing three months since it launched. 

    And I’ve seen no discourse about NADC Houston in any of the multiple Houston Foodie Facebook groups I’m in, which in my experience tends to be the strongest indicator of what locals are excited about / gravitating toward. The Houston outpost also doesn’t have a location on Google, and on Yelp it’s only rated a 4.2.

    But maybe that’s the point. The burger definitely didn’t stand a chance against my unslakable hunger for the finest beef concoctions in the land, and perhaps it doesn’t care if Houstonians flock to it or not.

    4.25 patties out of 5.

  • Get a Load of this Burger!

    Get a Load of this Burger!

    Friday, September 20, 2024 — When I first compiled my Burger Rating list about a year ago, I remember M&M Grill (not to be confused with MnM Hamburger, a different burger place in Houston also on my list that—as far as I can tell—is not related in any way, shape, or form) being near the top. But with only so many Friday lunches to dedicate to the Burger Hunt™️, it had remained on the to-do list.

    However, following a rebrand to Loaded Burger, I began to see their mouthwatering-looking hamburgers appear across my social ecosystems, and my interest re-piqued. And I’m glad it did.

    Loaded Burger has two locations—one at 6921 Alameda Rd, just south of the Med Center, and another at 14631 Beechnut, in Sugar Land south of the Westpark Tollway near Highway 6.

    And they’re not messing around with their beef.

    Loaded offers a handful of options (that can also be customized) and I elected to go with the Mango Habaňero Burger.

    Comprised of two Halal beef patties with fresh mango habaňero salsa, lettuce, pickles, and loaded sauce, the Mango Habaňero burger is a unique creation, and this delightful combination of savory ingredients is not something I’ve previously experienced.

    Despite being loaded with goodies, the beef remained the star of the show—wonderfully cooked and seasoned, with a melt-in-your-mouth quality reminiscent of Clutch City (which is among my top burger spots of 2024). My only critique is that the patties were on the smaller side (at least for me) and I think I would’ve benefited from adding a third 😊.

    As for the rest of the composition—suffice it to say it’s difficult for a burger topped with salsa to maintain its sandwich integrity, and so a good bit naturally spilled out (the bun did an admirable job of trying to keep everything together). Given my predilection for an absurd amount of toppings, this is par for the course for me when eating hamburgers pretty much anywhere at anytime, but worth noting. I secretly kinda love needing a fork or spoon to polish off the remainder of my burger fixings in the aftermath—the closest thing to a salad as I’ll get!

    The Loaded sauce complemented the mango salsa nicely and both components seemed to amplify each other. The one aspect I would’ve loved more of was heat—for a burger that carries “habaňero” in its name, I detected almost no spiciness, surprisingly enough.

    It took every bit of willpower not to order the chili fries—which I’m sure were delicious— but the curly fries and fried pickles were a perfect compliment to the meal.

    Overall, Loaded Burger was another highly enjoyable entrant in Houston’s insanely great hamburger scene. I continue to challenge anyone out there to let me know of a city in the U.S with a more extensive list of world-class hamburger options. I won’t hear from anybody, because it can’t be done!

    4.25 out of 5 patties 🍔🍔🍔🍔

  • Katy gem Big Burger World’s gigantic and delicious burgers are among Greater Houston’s most delicious

    Katy gem Big Burger World’s gigantic and delicious burgers are among Greater Houston’s most delicious

    Friday, May 10, 2024 — How Houston (and the Greater Houston area) can boast and support this many wonderful burger options is beyond me. Granted, last I checked, the population of Houston and its surrounding suburban areas was somewhere in the neighborhood of 5 million, which means plenty of hungry patrons to feed.

    However; while I had semi-high-expectations for it — being the third-highest-rated hamburger joint in Katy and 11th in all of Greater Houston per the Houston Burger Ranking list doesn’t just happen by accident — I was still very pleasantly surprised by just how wonderfully delicious Big Burger World is. And while it’s not quite in my backyard — truly, the only thing I might ding it for is being quite a bit further up North Fry (6078 N Fry Rd, to be exact) than I had anticipated; a trip that was exacerbated by the road-widening project at the Morton Rd intersection — it’s still close enough to my house that I wish I’d personally experienced its herculean greatness sooner.

    The moment you step inside it quickly becomes clear that Big Burger World is a kindred spirit of Mean Burger, the hole-in-the-wall just north of IAH that I absolutely loved. Similar vibes right on down to the yellow paint on the walls (Hippo Burger also prominently features yellow in its color scheme), to the no-frills menu design, but most importantly — the meat and composition of the sandwich itself rivaled the mouth-watering insanity I enjoyed at Mean Burger. And I’d be remiss if I didn’t also make the comparison to fellow beloved Katy fave JLB Eatery, whose signature is also gigantic burgers.

    I ordered the 1-pounder (yes, you read that right), and customized it with just about all of my favorites: lettuce, tomato, mayo, ketchup, mustard, pickles, onion, blue cheese crumbles, bacon, a fried egg, and of course, jalapeños. If you’re familiar with my reviews, you know that I LOVE huge burgers, and this delivered on that promise and then some!

    The beef was seasoned nicely and its overall flavor very enjoyable, if perhaps on the drier side than I’d ordinarily like, but when you have this many toppings on a burger sandwich you don’t need the patties to be overly juicy. But also, one pound of beef! What’s not to love? The all-time combo of blue cheese and bacon elevated the proceedings even further, and the fried egg was generous and added some nice texture (I find eggs occasionally get lost in the shuffle on burgers). And no skimping on the jalapeños here, which delivered a pleasant piquancy. As almost always happens when I order this many toppings, the bun struggled to support the weight of this concoction, but a minor nit to be sure, and I appreciated that it came half-wrapped to facilitate consumption and ensure all of the goodies stayed put.

    Unlike some of the other burger joints I’ve featured, Big Burger World’s fries are straightforward crinkle-cuts, with no signature toppings (that I could find). But when the overall burger composition is this tasty and satiating, you don’t necessarily also need a tray of fries smothered in essentially a second burger.

    Overall I was — once again — beyond impressed with a local burger option. Big Burger World is unassuming, delectable, and also might be one of the area’s better-kept secrets. If you are a burger lover, make sure Big Burger World is next up on your to-do list!

    Five out of five patties! 🍔 🍔 🍔 🍔 🍔

  • A smashing burger in tribute to the Bodega

    A smashing burger in tribute to the Bodega

    Friday, April 26, 2024 — Burger Bodega, at last! Perhaps the 2ndmosthyped Smashburger joint in Houston after Trill Burger, I’ve had Burger Bodega on my to-do list for some time, but as my burger compendium kept expanding with locations rated higher than BB’s still-respectable 4.2 on Yelp, I ended up backburnering it for some time.

    Boy, was that a mistake! Burger Bodega delivered on everything I want from a Smashburger place these days.

    I ordered the Double Smash — debated going triple, but decided I’d get my third patty in the Chopped Fries :) — their signature burger which comes standard with cheese, grilled onions, pickles, and Bodega Sauce on a potato roll. I also added jalapeños, habaneros and spicy mayo, because heat is life. I hate to go back to the Trill comp for a third time (though in fairness it’s kind of hard not to do so, given that they both launched within several months of each other; are basically a straight 10-minute shot down Shepherd from each other; and specialize in smashburgers), but this was another key differentiator for Burger Bodega: freedom of customization is almost a non-negotiable point for me when selecting a burger joint.

    Given how dressed this burger was I wasn’t able to pick up on anything specific flavor-note-wise on the seasoning or beef blend, but I did think the patties were well-prepared and flavorful. I was glad I added toppings and also happy that I went with the Chopped Fries to get that extra beef hit in — the Double Smash is not a tony burger by any stretch, but even with extras, it still didn’t quite pack the herculean heft of several of my favorite monster burger sandwiches. And that’s not a ding! Just an observation. Not every burger I consume needs to be enormous (Editor’s Note: Oh really?).

    Lastly, I loved the overall vibe and decor of the restaurant, which pays full homage to New York City bodegas, all the way on down to branded cereal boxes, laundry detergent canisters, and more adorning the walls. As a New York City kid, I obviously have a deep affinity for the bodega, having grown up patronizing them daily. And my former NYC-based beer project, Third Rail Beer, famously (we were in The Wall Street Journal!) paid homage through our Bodega American Pale Ale, a lower-ABV (5.8%) all-Citra gem which was considered generously and aggressively hopped for its era — especially at that point in the NYC craft beer timeline (2014-2016 era).

    My great friend Chris was kind enough to brew a modernized version of the Bodega recipe in tribute back in the fall of 2022, and he absolutely knocked it out of the park. The only downside was the batch was so tiny that only a very small handful of folks got to enjoy it. Maybe one day we’ll have an opportunity to run it back again.

    In any case, as far as the Houston smashburger hierarchy goes, I’m not sure I have Burger Bodega in my top three — which is currently comprised of burger-chan, Star Sailor, and Clutch City Grill — but it’s almost certainly #4, and can hang with any of those cats on any given day.

    My Burger Bodega rating: 4.5 out of 5 patties.

  • A smashing success: Star Sailor’s exceptional Smashburger is one of Houston’s very best

    A smashing success: Star Sailor’s exceptional Smashburger is one of Houston’s very best

    Friday, March 22, 2024 — Star Sailor is Houston’s most important bar & restaurant.

    In a city that was once blessed with multiple outstanding destinations to enjoy expertly handpicked craft beer lists and generous outdoor seating (yes, I’m still mourning Petrol Station and The Rancor Burger, RIP), the last half decade has been deeply unkind to the Houston craft beer bar scene.

    Thankfully, Marin Slanina set out to change all that—in 2020 of all years. Star Sailor is located on 18th and Ella, maybe 500 feet away from arguably my other favorite restaurant in The Heights, Hughie’s, and between a thoughtfully curated draft wall and a mouth-watering menu, should be at the very top of your to-do list if you haven’t been yet (and also if you have).

    But you’re here for the burger content. While I’d been to Star Sailor previously for drinks, the establishment landed back on my radar after compiling my Houston Burger Ranking spreadsheet, where it sits at #2 in the entire city. Had I known what I was missing out on I’d have rectified the situation much earlier.

    Star Sailor’s menu is impressively deep, but they are best known for their Smashburger. I’ve recently been griping to friends about how I’ve been underwhelmed by several of the smashburgers I’ve had of late—burger-chan of course being the exception; the sandwiches that have incurred my indifference are the last several New York City hype burgers I’ve had during my trips back up north. This past week in particular I was thrilled to finally check Gotham Burger Social Club off during my less than 48 hours in Manhattan and it was…decidedly unmemorable, not to mention unfulfilling. Its saving grace was the ghost pepper ranch sauce—but Star Sailor’s outstanding Smashburger has changed my tune entirely.

    I ordered a double patty (because obviously), and the burger came topped with melted cheese, delicious Stellar sauce, chopped onion & pickles. I also had to add an egg, bacon, and sautéed jalapeños (because of course).

    First things first—not sure what blend of beef Marin is using, but it’s wonderfully savory and tender. One of my complaints about smashes is that the smash technique tends to eliminate any semblance of juiciness, but this had it in spades and was prepared with love, attention, and precision.

    Another issue that arises with many smashes is that they don’t satiate properly—I was hungry enough after the Gotham Social experience that I still had room for three slices of sublime NYC pizza (with anchovies, yum)! I am happy to report that the Star Sailor Double Smash is generous enough to satisfy my seemingly limitless desire for over-the-top meat concoctions.

    The only negative aspect of this latest burger adventure was that it ended too quickly—though that is of course on me as by now you know I eat faster than just about anyone.

    Overall, Star Sailor’s mouthwatering Smash is beyond deserving of its aggregate #2 ranking in all of Houston by Houstonians. The only establishment ahead of it is burger-chan, and I also agree as I have burger-chan as my #1 in Houston as well.

    I mentioned this during my unenthusiastic review of NYC’s Nowon, and the sentiment only continues to calcify as I continue to enjoy excellent local burger after excellent local burger: Houston is absolutely throttling my hometown in beef delivery transcendence. Now if only someone would revive The Rancor.

    5 out of 5 patties 🍔 🍔 🍔 🍔 🍔

  • Don’t miss hype Houston food truck Crypto Burger’s crave-worthy FOMO sauce

    Don’t miss hype Houston food truck Crypto Burger’s crave-worthy FOMO sauce

    Friday, February 9, 2024 — Traveling Houston-area burger purveyors Crypto Burger hit my Instagram feed last fall with mouth-watering photos of their delicious-looking burgers, and I finally popped over to the food truck park on Chimney Rock in the Galleria to see what all the fuss was about.

    Anticipating a line, the entire park—which also features another burger food truck catty corner from Crypto—was instead surprisingly barren for lunchtime on a Friday. I debated between their fan favorite Bunque Burger and the Bull Run, and ended up ordering the latter. 

    Bull Run is described as a “Homemade beef patty, topped with Serrano peppers, beef bacon, fried onions, cayenne pepper hot sauce, shredded Colby jack cheese, and our spicy FOMO sauce.” 

    It took a bit longer for my order—which, because I am a glutton for all things meat, also included the Spicy Metaverse Monster Fries, a gigantic platter of fries that could easily serve as a meal unto its own absolutely smothered with ground beef, grilled jalapeños, and FOMO sauce—to be completed than I expected, though you can’t quibble with a fresh-grilled burger.

    As you can see by my photo, the patty is drenched in the FOMO sauce and it is truly the star of the show. A pleasant zippiness, but not overwhelmingly spicy where it blows your palate out. The beef blend itself was enjoyable, though the overall flavor got a little lost amidst all of the other awesomeness accompanying it. The bun was fluffy and also hefty enough to stand up to the onslaught of toppings—always a plus.

    Overall I was glad to have finally checked Crypto off my neverending list. While I don’t  think it cracks my top five in Houston—though in fairness, that’s a difficult list to enter!—and food trucks seem to be the recipient of a generous grading curve by the review-leaving public, I would definitely eat it again. 4 out of 5 patties.

  • Champ-ing at the bit: Is this Houston’s best hamburger?

    Champ-ing at the bit: Is this Houston’s best hamburger?

    Friday, January 26, 2024 — Champ Burger is Houston burger royalty in this city, having first flung its doors open 61 years ago. It jumped toward the top of my to-eat list when I began compiling my Houston burger rating tracking spreadsheet a couple of months ago, standing out as the 8th-highest-rated burger in the entire Greater Houston area (if you go by Yelp) or tied with three others for 2nd (if you prefer Google ratings). For added context, this is a spreadsheet that currently features nearly 120 places in and around Houston to grab a burger, and almost certainly isn’t an exhaustive list!

    Right out of the gate, its well-worn neighborhood feel and overall vibe — lengthy line at the order window and mostly outdoor seating — are immediately evocative of fellow Houston burger institutions Lankford Grill, Bubba’s Texas Burger Shack, and Stanton’s City Bites (eagle-eyed readers will recall that the former two made my Best Burgers of 2023 roundup, while the latter also would’ve been on there had I extended the list past a mere five slots). It’s also no coincidence that each of these venues all trade in exceptional beef stack assembly, sharing a like-minded ethos of “more is more” with regards to both patty size (no smashburgers to be found at these spots) and generosity of toppings.

    So let’s get to it. The Champ burger was, at the risk of overstating things, about as hedonistically thrilling a consumptive experience as one can hope to attain. Everything about this sandwich screams love, deliciousness, indulgence, excess, and yet still care and attentiveness. The patties are expertly seasoned and the 81/19 Chuck beef blend is melt-in-your-mouth exquisite (do yourself a favor and get the double, you won’t be sad that you did), the cheese perfectly gooey, and the toppings — oh, the toppings! — elevated the entire composition to an ethereal level. 

    Often when one orders bacon on a burger, you’ll get one slice — maybe two if you’re lucky — that isn’t cohesively synthesized into the sandwich and frequently feel like an afterthought. Champ’s burgers are flooded with bacon, and it’s cooked to middle-ground soft-yet-chewy perfection. I added jalapeños to mine (because how can you not) and the sandwich also comes standard with lettuce, tomato, pickles, and mayo, and you get heaping piles of everything. I’m not usually looking for tons of mayo but the burger was drenched in it, and it really worked; while my wrapper probably contained about 10 jalapeños that had to jump ship as I systematically devoured this monster beef delivery vehicle at my typical breakneck pace. 

    Recency bias is always difficult to overcome when comparing favorite entries in a given category — and I absolutely loved both Bubba’s and Lankford, and should probably try to orchestrate a blind tasting one of these days for fairness and accuracy’s sake), but it’s very possible I just found my new favorite hamburger* in Houston. 

    (*While technically both are still hamburgers, at this point the spots that specialize in smashburgers versus the older-school traditional hamburger joints arrive at their delicious destinations in such distinctly unique fashions from each other, that the “my favorite hamburger” designation can be bifurcated into regular and smash — which means burger-chan of course remains my top smash in the city).

  • KP’s Kitchen: Burger simplicity par excellence

    KP’s Kitchen: Burger simplicity par excellence

    Friday, January 19, 2024 — My ever-growing list of burgers to try in the Greater Houston area (go ahead and click the link; it’s the first time I’ve publicly shared my spreadsheet 😊) is usually populated by places that appear on best-of lists and/or word of mouth via the city’s lively and various Facebook foodie groups. 

    KP’s hit my radar by way of Reddit, and I’m certainly glad it did. My spreadsheet ranks burgers by Yelp review first and Google rating second, as the former is typically a tougher grade. KP’s is the rare spot that grades out ridiculously highly on both platforms — 4.6 on Yelp, and 4.7 on Google. 

    And it deserves those high marks.

    KP’s cheeseburger might be the most unassuming of all of the patties I’ve reviewed to date — its two smashburgers are accompanied by smoked bacon, American cheese, dijonnaise & hand cut fries — but its the execution that makes this straightforward sandwich top-notch.  The burgers themselves are exquisite — I don’t know what the meat blend is, but they’re expertly seasoned and cooked to perfection, and given the sheer volume of meat stack plates I saw coming out of the kitchen, it’s no small feat to nail the temperature over and over again for a restaurant that’s not a fast-food joint. 

    Truly, the KP burger’s appeal lies in its simplicity — the cheese is melted just so, the bacon soft yet chewy, and the bun representing the ideal delivery vehicle. You’d be forgiven if you overlooked KP’s given that it sits right on I-10 (“I can’t imagine an elite burger place on a highway frontage road”), but do yourself a favor and hop on over there for this beefy greatness. 

    To top it off, KP’s is BYOB, and for an outrageously picky beer snob like me, the ability to bring a world-class hazy DIPA into the restaurant — in this particular instance, a fresh-off–the-canning-line batch of SpindleTap’s lovely ode to Nelson and Galaxy hops, Hirsch Road Hop Heads — absolutely elevated the overall experience, and cemented KP’s as a go-to spot for meals to come.

    4.5 out of 5 patties. 🍔🍔🍔🍔

  • The “Legendary Cheeseburger” at NYC’s Nowon is highly overrated

    The “Legendary Cheeseburger” at NYC’s Nowon is highly overrated

    Monday, January 1, 2024 — I made time for one hype burger during our recent NYC holiday trip, and — it wasn’t great.

    Nowon is a Korean-American gastropub with two New York locations. We dined at the East Village outpost on 6th Street between Avenue A and Avenue B. Having grown up six blocks away from Alphabet City and later as an adult living on its northern border at 14th Street and Avenue A, it’s my favorite neighborhood in New York. Countless memories of long nights at bars — my wife and I had our very first date at the former Musical Box (Easter egg!) bar on Avenue B between 13th and 14th Streets — and dozens of terrific meals, but unfortunately this wasn’t one of them.

    Nowon hit my radar on the heels of a handful of highly influential NYC food influencers — including Jeremy Jacobowitz; The Infatuation‘s Bryan Kim, Neha Talreja, Willa Morre, and Kenny Yang; and by Shauna Lyons in The New Yorker, arguably the city’s ultimate high-brow cultural aesthete — recommending the burger as one of the city’s best. No greater sign of a New York restaurant having a moment than threatening you with a $125 fee if you need to cancel and don’t provide ample advanced notice!

    Digression aside, our party of four was sat at a too-small roundtop despite there being a more generously sized rectangular table available. My brother and I were both excited to try what the restaurant calls its “Legendary Cheeseburger.” 

    The sandwich consists of two smashed patties, pickles, kimchi, and kimchi sauce, and…it was incredibly underwhelming. While I’m certainly willing to give a place the benefit of the doubt and chalk it up to a bad night, the burger was straight-up boring. The sesame-seed bun was uninspiring and borderline stale, and the patties were *way* overcooked. Biting into this thing was akin to chewing on a hockey puck. I thought for sure the kimchi sauce would moisten this arid meat-delivery vehicle, but no such luck — this was one of the drier burgers I can recall having in some time. I love a juicy burger, and this was the antithesis. Lastly, the patties were on the small side, and being smashed meant the sandwich had no heft. Maybe many New Yorkers prefer a daintier hamburger, but if there’s one “bigger in Texas” stereotype I’ve wholeheartedly adopted during my decade in the Lone Star State it’s the desire for burger stacks so massive you need to unhinge your jaw to consume them.

    Nowon’s saving grace for us that night was that everything else we ordered — pickled cucumbers and fried chicken for appetizers, and kimchee and mushroom rice veggie dish entrees selected by our significant others — was delicious.

    Parenthetically, during my previous trip home to NYC this last summer I made a point to try 7th Street Burger, another smashburger joint which has also garnered its share of hype. It was enjoyable — certainly juicier than Nowon’s — but I’m not sure it brought much more to the table than one might find at Shake Shack.

    Thus far in the Houston-NYC burger wars, H-Town is running circles around my hometown. While it may not be an entirely apples-to-apples to comparison, I can’t help but evaluate everything against burger-chan, my 2023 Top Burger winner, and eating Nowon’s dry, joyless burger made me appreciate just how fortunate Houstonians are to enjoy the thoughtful, intentional, and heartfelt experience Willet and Diane deliver every day.

    Nowon rating: 1 out of 5 patties 😬