Month: January 2024

  • Champ-ing at the bit: Is this Houston’s best hamburger?

    Champ-ing at the bit: Is this Houston’s best hamburger?

    Friday, January 26, 2024 — Champ Burger is Houston burger royalty in this city, having first flung its doors open 61 years ago. It jumped toward the top of my to-eat list when I began compiling my Houston burger rating tracking spreadsheet a couple of months ago, standing out as the 8th-highest-rated burger in the entire Greater Houston area (if you go by Yelp) or tied with three others for 2nd (if you prefer Google ratings). For added context, this is a spreadsheet that currently features nearly 120 places in and around Houston to grab a burger, and almost certainly isn’t an exhaustive list!

    Right out of the gate, its well-worn neighborhood feel and overall vibe — lengthy line at the order window and mostly outdoor seating — are immediately evocative of fellow Houston burger institutions Lankford Grill, Bubba’s Texas Burger Shack, and Stanton’s City Bites (eagle-eyed readers will recall that the former two made my Best Burgers of 2023 roundup, while the latter also would’ve been on there had I extended the list past a mere five slots). It’s also no coincidence that each of these venues all trade in exceptional beef stack assembly, sharing a like-minded ethos of “more is more” with regards to both patty size (no smashburgers to be found at these spots) and generosity of toppings.

    So let’s get to it. The Champ burger was, at the risk of overstating things, about as hedonistically thrilling a consumptive experience as one can hope to attain. Everything about this sandwich screams love, deliciousness, indulgence, excess, and yet still care and attentiveness. The patties are expertly seasoned and the 81/19 Chuck beef blend is melt-in-your-mouth exquisite (do yourself a favor and get the double, you won’t be sad that you did), the cheese perfectly gooey, and the toppings — oh, the toppings! — elevated the entire composition to an ethereal level. 

    Often when one orders bacon on a burger, you’ll get one slice — maybe two if you’re lucky — that isn’t cohesively synthesized into the sandwich and frequently feel like an afterthought. Champ’s burgers are flooded with bacon, and it’s cooked to middle-ground soft-yet-chewy perfection. I added jalapeños to mine (because how can you not) and the sandwich also comes standard with lettuce, tomato, pickles, and mayo, and you get heaping piles of everything. I’m not usually looking for tons of mayo but the burger was drenched in it, and it really worked; while my wrapper probably contained about 10 jalapeños that had to jump ship as I systematically devoured this monster beef delivery vehicle at my typical breakneck pace. 

    Recency bias is always difficult to overcome when comparing favorite entries in a given category — and I absolutely loved both Bubba’s and Lankford, and should probably try to orchestrate a blind tasting one of these days for fairness and accuracy’s sake), but it’s very possible I just found my new favorite hamburger* in Houston. 

    (*While technically both are still hamburgers, at this point the spots that specialize in smashburgers versus the older-school traditional hamburger joints arrive at their delicious destinations in such distinctly unique fashions from each other, that the “my favorite hamburger” designation can be bifurcated into regular and smash — which means burger-chan of course remains my top smash in the city).

  • KP’s Kitchen: Burger simplicity par excellence

    KP’s Kitchen: Burger simplicity par excellence

    Friday, January 19, 2024 — My ever-growing list of burgers to try in the Greater Houston area (go ahead and click the link; it’s the first time I’ve publicly shared my spreadsheet 😊) is usually populated by places that appear on best-of lists and/or word of mouth via the city’s lively and various Facebook foodie groups. 

    KP’s hit my radar by way of Reddit, and I’m certainly glad it did. My spreadsheet ranks burgers by Yelp review first and Google rating second, as the former is typically a tougher grade. KP’s is the rare spot that grades out ridiculously highly on both platforms — 4.6 on Yelp, and 4.7 on Google. 

    And it deserves those high marks.

    KP’s cheeseburger might be the most unassuming of all of the patties I’ve reviewed to date — its two smashburgers are accompanied by smoked bacon, American cheese, dijonnaise & hand cut fries — but its the execution that makes this straightforward sandwich top-notch.  The burgers themselves are exquisite — I don’t know what the meat blend is, but they’re expertly seasoned and cooked to perfection, and given the sheer volume of meat stack plates I saw coming out of the kitchen, it’s no small feat to nail the temperature over and over again for a restaurant that’s not a fast-food joint. 

    Truly, the KP burger’s appeal lies in its simplicity — the cheese is melted just so, the bacon soft yet chewy, and the bun representing the ideal delivery vehicle. You’d be forgiven if you overlooked KP’s given that it sits right on I-10 (“I can’t imagine an elite burger place on a highway frontage road”), but do yourself a favor and hop on over there for this beefy greatness. 

    To top it off, KP’s is BYOB, and for an outrageously picky beer snob like me, the ability to bring a world-class hazy DIPA into the restaurant — in this particular instance, a fresh-off–the-canning-line batch of SpindleTap’s lovely ode to Nelson and Galaxy hops, Hirsch Road Hop Heads — absolutely elevated the overall experience, and cemented KP’s as a go-to spot for meals to come.

    4.5 out of 5 patties. 🍔🍔🍔🍔

  • Katy’s got a fever, baby. And the only prescription is more Kowbell

    Katy’s got a fever, baby. And the only prescription is more Kowbell

    Friday, January 12, 2024 — Kowbell Burger—nestled snugly in Katy Asian Town—burst on to the local burger scene a mere handful of months ago and quickly garnered a legion of hype. No small feat in a greater metropolitan area dripping in burger exceptionalism. Naturally it quickly hit my to-do list, and I finally checked it off this weekend. And I am delighted to say, it absolutely slayed.

    The patty is a tri-blend of chuck, brisket, and short rib, and is a true joy unto itself. But of course, burgers are best served fully adorned by their best topping friends, and in this instance I selected the Blue Bayou. If you’ve been reading my burger reviews you know I’m wild about blue cheese, and this gem is smothered in its eponymous fromage, along with smoked bacon, signature k-buffalo sauce, and mayo. Because I have to have jalapeños on everything, I requested their addition. And because I’m an absolute meat savage, I of course added a second patty to make it a double.

    This burger encapsulated Larry bliss — an exemplary meat blend, brilliant blue cheese flavor, a second layer of meat, and an added zippiness from the peppers. The restaurant also features multiple proprietary sauces, helping further elevate an already refined beef delivery conveyance.

    My only nit was the bun—as you can see in the photo, it’s a bit underwhelming visually, and I’m not sure it did much for the overall experience flavor-wise. Also, the Parmesan truffle fries were a bit thick and could’ve used more seasoning.

    With that said, if you swapped these buns out for brioche, we could potentially be talking about the best burgers in Texas 😱 Bun notwithstanding, I get why Kowbell is currently rocking a perfect 5.0 on Google (and yes, we know Google ratings are inflated), and a 4.6 on notoriously stingy Yelp.

    5 out of 5 patties 🍔🍔🍔🍔🍔

  • The “Legendary Cheeseburger” at NYC’s Nowon is highly overrated

    The “Legendary Cheeseburger” at NYC’s Nowon is highly overrated

    Monday, January 1, 2024 — I made time for one hype burger during our recent NYC holiday trip, and — it wasn’t great.

    Nowon is a Korean-American gastropub with two New York locations. We dined at the East Village outpost on 6th Street between Avenue A and Avenue B. Having grown up six blocks away from Alphabet City and later as an adult living on its northern border at 14th Street and Avenue A, it’s my favorite neighborhood in New York. Countless memories of long nights at bars — my wife and I had our very first date at the former Musical Box (Easter egg!) bar on Avenue B between 13th and 14th Streets — and dozens of terrific meals, but unfortunately this wasn’t one of them.

    Nowon hit my radar on the heels of a handful of highly influential NYC food influencers — including Jeremy Jacobowitz; The Infatuation‘s Bryan Kim, Neha Talreja, Willa Morre, and Kenny Yang; and by Shauna Lyons in The New Yorker, arguably the city’s ultimate high-brow cultural aesthete — recommending the burger as one of the city’s best. No greater sign of a New York restaurant having a moment than threatening you with a $125 fee if you need to cancel and don’t provide ample advanced notice!

    Digression aside, our party of four was sat at a too-small roundtop despite there being a more generously sized rectangular table available. My brother and I were both excited to try what the restaurant calls its “Legendary Cheeseburger.” 

    The sandwich consists of two smashed patties, pickles, kimchi, and kimchi sauce, and…it was incredibly underwhelming. While I’m certainly willing to give a place the benefit of the doubt and chalk it up to a bad night, the burger was straight-up boring. The sesame-seed bun was uninspiring and borderline stale, and the patties were *way* overcooked. Biting into this thing was akin to chewing on a hockey puck. I thought for sure the kimchi sauce would moisten this arid meat-delivery vehicle, but no such luck — this was one of the drier burgers I can recall having in some time. I love a juicy burger, and this was the antithesis. Lastly, the patties were on the small side, and being smashed meant the sandwich had no heft. Maybe many New Yorkers prefer a daintier hamburger, but if there’s one “bigger in Texas” stereotype I’ve wholeheartedly adopted during my decade in the Lone Star State it’s the desire for burger stacks so massive you need to unhinge your jaw to consume them.

    Nowon’s saving grace for us that night was that everything else we ordered — pickled cucumbers and fried chicken for appetizers, and kimchee and mushroom rice veggie dish entrees selected by our significant others — was delicious.

    Parenthetically, during my previous trip home to NYC this last summer I made a point to try 7th Street Burger, another smashburger joint which has also garnered its share of hype. It was enjoyable — certainly juicier than Nowon’s — but I’m not sure it brought much more to the table than one might find at Shake Shack.

    Thus far in the Houston-NYC burger wars, H-Town is running circles around my hometown. While it may not be an entirely apples-to-apples to comparison, I can’t help but evaluate everything against burger-chan, my 2023 Top Burger winner, and eating Nowon’s dry, joyless burger made me appreciate just how fortunate Houstonians are to enjoy the thoughtful, intentional, and heartfelt experience Willet and Diane deliver every day.

    Nowon rating: 1 out of 5 patties 😬